Why Retinol Isn’t As Scary As You Think: A Beginner’s Guide

In this comprehensive beginner’s guide, we’ll explore everything you need to know about retinol—what it is, how it works, its benefits, and how to safely add it to your routine.

What is Retinol?

Retinol is just one type of retinoid, which is a category of Vitamin A derivatives that do wonders for your skin. Retinoids are known for speeding up cell turnover, improving texture, and reducing signs of ageing like fine lines and wrinkles. They work by boosting collagen production, which helps keep your skin firm and smooth.

There are several different forms of retinoids, each with its own strengths:

1. Retinol: This is the gentlest form of retinoid and a great starting point for beginners. Retinol needs to be converted into its active form (retinoic acid) by your skin, which makes it less potent and a bit more forgiving. It’s ideal for those who want to introduce a retinoid into their routine without too much irritation.
2. Tretinoin (Retinoic Acid): Tretinoin, or “tret,” is a stronger, prescription-only retinoid. It’s more effective because it’s already in its active form, so you’ll see faster results. But it can be a bit harsher on the skin because it’s more potent. If you want access to prescription-strength tretinoin, services like Skin + Me and Dermatica can tailor the dosage to your skin’s needs.
3. Retinaldehyde (Retinal): Retinaldehyde, or retinal, is a bit stronger than retinol but less irritating than tretinoin. It’s a good option if you want faster results but need something gentler than tret.
4. Retinyl Palmitate: This is a milder version of retinol that’s often found in over-the-counter products. It’s perfect if you have sensitive skin or are looking for a gentler way to introduce a retinoid into your routine.
5. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: This is a newer form of retinoid that’s designed to be less irritating while still giving you the benefits of stronger retinoids. It doesn’t need to be converted like retinol, which makes it more effective but still easier on the skin.

Why Should You Use Retinol?

Retinol isn’t just a buzzword—it’s backed by years of scientific research and is proven to deliver visible results. Whether you’re looking to combat signs of ageing or improve the appearance of acne, retinol has numerous benefits. Here’s why you might want to include it in your routine:

Hyperpigmentation
If you’re dealing with dark spots or uneven skin tone, retinol can help reduce hyperpigmentation. By accelerating the rate at which skin cells turn over, retinol helps fade discolouration, including sun spots, age spots, and post-acne marks.

Anti-Ageing Benefits
As we age, the production of collagen (the protein that keeps our skin firm and elastic) naturally slows down. This leads to the development of fine lines, wrinkles, and sagging skin. Retinol stimulates collagen production, helping to restore skin firmness and elasticity. It also speeds up the turnover of skin cells, which can reduce the appearance of fine lines and improve skin texture.

Acne Treatment
Retinol is widely used for treating acne. It helps unclog pores by encouraging the shedding of dead skin cells, preventing breakouts and blackheads. By promoting cell turnover, retinol keeps pores from becoming congested with excess oil and debris. It’s particularly effective for mild to moderate acne, though for more severe cases, prescription-strength retinoids may be necessary.

Improved Skin Texture
One of the standout benefits of retinol is its ability to smooth skin texture. By speeding up the skin’s natural exfoliation process, retinol helps reveal fresher, more even-toned skin. It’s a great choice for addressing rough or uneven texture, especially if you have issues like sun damage or post-acne scarring.

How to Start Using Retinol

If you’re new to retinol, make sure to introduce it into your routine slowly to avoid irritation. Here’s how to start:

1. Start Slow
   If you’ve never used retinol before, start by applying it just once or twice a week. This allows your skin to adjust without overwhelming it. Gradually increase the frequency to every other night, then nightly if your skin can tolerate it.
2. Use at Night
   Retinol makes your skin more sensitive to the sun, so it’s best to apply it at night. This also allows it to work more effectively, as it won’t be exposed to sunlight, which can break it down and reduce its potency.
3. Apply to Dry Skin
   Make sure your skin is completely dry before applying retinol. Applying it to damp skin can increase the risk of irritation. Wait a few minutes after cleansing to ensure your skin is dry before applying retinol.
4. Moisturise
   Since retinol can be drying, it’s crucial to keep your skin hydrated. Apply a moisturiser after retinol to lock in moisture and help prevent irritation. If your skin is particularly dry or sensitive, you can apply moisturiser first. This is known as the ‘sandwich method’ and acts as a buffer between your skin and the retinol.
5. Always Use Sunscreen
   Because retinol can increase your skin’s sensitivity to the sun, applying a broad-spectrum sunscreen with at least SPF 30 every morning is essential. Sunscreen protects your skin from further damage and helps prevent irritation and pigmentation.

What to Expect When Using Retinol

When you first start using retinol, it’s common to experience some irritation. Here’s what you might encounter:

1. Purging
   When you first introduce retinol, your skin might go through a purging phase aka ‘the retinol uglies!’ During this time, you may experience breakouts or an increase in acne as the retinol speeds up cell turnover and brings clogged pores to the surface. Don’t panic—this phase usually lasts a few weeks and is a sign that the retinol is working.
2. Irritation and Dryness
   Retinol can cause dryness, redness, and peeling, especially in the beginning. If you experience severe irritation, cut back on usage and gradually reintroduce it into your routine. You can also use a more hydrating moisturiser or a soothing serum to calm your skin. La Roche Posay Cicaplast Balm and Byoma Barrier+ Repair Treatment were my best friends during this time!
3. Visible Results
   With consistent use, you should begin to see improvements in your skin’s texture, tone, and overall appearance. Most people notice smoother skin and reduced fine lines after 4-6 weeks of regular use. For acne treatment, it may take a bit longer—around 6-12 weeks.

Can I use Retinol if Pregnant or Breastfeeding?

The guidance on this can be a little confusing! Dermatologists generally do not advise the use of retinoids when pregnant or breastfeeding. This is because there has only been minimal research on the amount of product that is absorbed into the bloodstream. I avoided using retinoids when pregnant but did reintroduce them towards the end of my breastfeeding journey. I am not advocating that you do the same but I was satisfied with the reading I had done on the topic that this would not cause any adverse effects to me or my baby. If you want to err on the side of caution, Bakuchiol is an ingredient worth looking at. It is a plant extract which works in a similar way to retinol!